Nesse post vou te contar o que fazer em Milos, na Grécia. Milos não era a minha primeira opção de destino. A verdade é que quando eu estava montando meu roteiro de viagem fiquei completamente perdida, quanto mais eu digitava no Google “melhores ilhas gregas”, “melhores praias na Grécia”, “o que fazer na Grécia”… mais confusa eu ficava.
Para a minha sorte, eu tenho uma amiga grega, a Chrysoulas do blog Travel Passionate. Sem saber para onde ir, mandei uma mensagem para ela pedindo socorro: “Chrysoulas, minha prioridade é praia, mergulho e tranquilidade, para onde eu vou?” Sem pestanejar ela disse: “Milos!”
Milos. Grécia mais autêntica, desconheço. Estivemos em Zakynthos e Santorini também, mas foi em Milos que eu pude realmente desacelerar e curtir a vibe natureba que eu queria. Portanto vou compartilhar o que fazer em Milos e como tirar o melhor proveito da ilha.
Leia os posts de Zakynthos aqui.
Quantos dias ficar em Milos
Meu plano era ficar 3 dias em Milos mas devido ao vento, o ferry de volta foi cancelado e tive que fazer o enorme sacrifício de ficar mais 2 dias. Não foi nada fácil ter que curtir aquele mar azul-turquesa e comer maravilhosamente bem por mais tempo que o planejado. Se tiver oportunidade, faça o mesmo! Recomendo.
Com 5 dias em Milos conheci mais de 10 praias e ainda 5 vilarejos. A minha conclusão é que a ilha é pacata, muito menos badalada que as vizinhas Mykonos e Ios e é um dos melhores lugares para lua de mel na Grécia depois de Santorini. Onde a gente ia, só via casais.
Veja aqui o meu Roteiro Completo em Santorini.
Mas a ilha também é um destino incrível para quem ama praia, fotografia e tem espírito de Dora Aventureira. Prazer, eu mesma! A ilha tem só 160 km² e as estradas são relativamente boas. Só sair dirigindo e aproveitar.
Veja todas as nossas aventuras por lá nos destaques no Instagram: @viajantesincera
Como ir de Atenas à Milos
Ferry
O ferry Sea Jets parte do Porto de Piraeus em Atenas. A viagem teoricamente leva 3:30 h mas a nossa levou 6 h: 1 h de atraso e 2 h porque o mar estava revolto e o ferry teve que literalmente nadar contra a corrente. Menino, parecia uma rave em alto-mar, foi tenso. Confesso que fui a viagem inteira pensando: “Se eu morrer aqui, pelo menos realizei meu sonho de conhecer a Grécia.”
Pelas minhas pesquisas o vento descontrolado é comum para aqueles lados, mas em condições marítimas normais o ferry funciona super bem. Pode ir que é sucesso! Compre sua passagem online antecipadamente aqui. Custa em média 40 euros.
#DicaSincera:
Chegue ao Porto de Piraeus com pelo menos 1 h de antecedência para trocar a sua passagem no guichê e andar até a área de embarque que fica a uns 15 minutos de distância.
É claro que eu não fiz isso: peguei o metrô no centro de Atenas 1 h antes do embarque e depois tive que correr igual a uma louca pra não perder o ferry. Como o universo ajuda os destrambelhados, o ferry atrasou e embarquei plena e vitoriosa. Acredita que eu ainda filmei esse perrengue? Tá no meu vlog de Atenas no Youtube. Vai lá ver a correria.
Avião
Há voos diretos de Atenas pela Olympic Air e Sky Express, o trecho leva 45 minutos e custa a partir de 50 euros.
Onde ficar em Milos, Grécia: hotéis para todos os bolsos
Plaka
É a capital e uma ótima opção para quem só pensa em comer visto que há inúmeros restaurantes – além do pôr do sol mais famoso de Milos. A desvantagem de ficar em Plaka é que todo dia será preciso subir e descer uma escadaria da Penha até o estacionamento já que o acesso de carros é restrito. Há vários apart hotéis incríveis em Plaka, como o Vivere a Plakes e o Chaido Studios que têm ótimas avaliações no Booking.
Adamas
Onde fica o porto e as principais agências de turismo e aluguel de carro. Há também uma boa oferta de restaurantes e lojas. É a melhor opção para quem não pretende alugar carro. Ficamos no AnnaRita Suites que é simples, porém confortável e limpíssimo. Se você preferir um hotel com piscina, o Santa Maria Village e o Vila Mina são sensacionais.
Pollonia
É uma vila de pescadores pequetita cheia de restaurantes à beira mar. Também tem escolas de mergulho e a única vinícola oficial – a Kostantakis Cave Winery. Na vila encontra-se um dos melhores hotéis de Milos, o Milos Breeze Boutique Hotel. Uma alternativa com melhor custo benefício é o Villa Gallis que também é um charme.
Transporte em Milos
Carro: A melhor opção para explorar a ilha. Ao alugar um carro de passeio, a locadora informa que não é possível dirigir em estradas de chão. Para se aventurar por essas estradas só com um 4×4. Os valores variam entre 45 euros por dia para carros populares e 55 euros para um 4×4. Nós alugamos um carro popular e foi tranquilo. Faça aqui sua cotação.
Ônibus: Há uma linha de ônibus que conecta as principais praias. Como elas são bem afastadas umas das outras, se você optar por usar o transporte público vai precisar planejar seu roteiro de acordo com horário dos ônibus. Detalhes: os horários mudam quase toda semana! Dá pra acreditar? Tente entender essa maluquice no site da empresa de ônibus.
O que fazer em Milos, Grécia
Você vai encontrar algumas das praias mais lindas da Grécia, com destaque para a paisagem lunar surreal de Sarakininko, a rústica Firiplaka e a azul-turquesa Firopotamos.
Se você for amante de história grega, vale lembrar que a icônica estátua da Vênus de Milos foi encontrada na ilha em 101 a.C.! Infelizmente ela está exposta no Louvre e há uma campanha do gregos para que a Vênus volte para casa. Acho justo.
Visitei o local onde a Vênus foi encontrada na vila de Trypiti e de quebra ainda conheci o incrível Teatro Antigo de Milos. Ele fica em uma colina, a céu aberto e com vista para a baía. Tá bom ou quer mais? Ah! o teatro é do século III a.C. e foi reconstruído todo em mármore. A visita é grátis e quase não há turistas por lá.
Os turistas geralmente se concentram na vila mais charmosa de todas: Plaka. É onde todo mundo se aglomera para ver o pôr do sol e conhecer o ponto mais alto da ilha, o Kastro. Outros vilarejos fofinhos e cinematográficos que você tem que visitar são Adamas, Pollonia e Klima – que mais parece um set de filmagens.
Os melhores tours em Milos
Só escolher o seu tour favorito e se jogar! Como as condições do mar estavam bem loucas na semana que estávamos lá, poucos barcos estavam saindo. Fizemos apenas o passeio de barco para conhecer as grutas e mergulhar em Kleftiko. Foi maravilhoso!
Onde comer em Milos: restaurantes imperdíveis
Essa é a hora do post que eu até salivo! Gente do céu, a culinária grega é boa demais! Nossas recomendações na ilha são:
Zygos: churrasco grego tradicional em um ambiente familiar com preços baixíssimos.
Archoutoula: espetacular e lindo! Por isso mesmo fica bem cheio na hora do jantar. O serviço é bem devagar, portanto não vá morrendo de fome. Tudo é delicioso. Comemos lá quatro vezes.
O! Hamos Tavern: um dos melhores restaurantes. Tem uma fila de espera interminável mas eu garanto, vale a pena! O lugar é especial, você come em um jardim e a comida é maravilhosa!
Utopia Café: um dos melhores lugares para ver o pôr do sol. Obviamente é superfaturado por isso, mas vale a pena.
Thalassopetra: fica na remota praia de Agia Kiriaki. E especializado em frutos do mar e nós adoramos.
Quanto custa viajar para Milos
Gravei um vlog com todos os nossos custos na ilha, mas é claro que esses custos não serão os mesmos quando você for, então o que eu te sugiro é baixar essa planilha gratuita para descobrir, em minutos, quanto vai custar a sua viagem.
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